From Christchurch, Claire and Canterbury to Sun, Surf & Sand

What a whirlwind week it has been!  As I mentioned last post, my friend Claire from Northfield came to visit me for a few days on her way to Australia and we were busy seeing the sights of Dunedin and Christchurch.

We began our week in the Botanic Gardens exploring some of the further reaches I hadn't yet seen.  The extent of the garden is pretty impressive, there are numerous individual gardens dedicated to particular species of plants and specific regions around the world.  We visited the aviary, a garden of South African plants, a valley of ferns and some truly magnificent trees.  Claire was especially impressed by the gardens, having taken plant morphology at St. Olaf she was well equipped to appreciate the genetic relationships and kept telling me about similar plants in the U.S..

The next day we took a bus to the foot of Mt. Cargill (named after one of the founders of Dunedin) and climbed it for panoramic views of the city.  It was a little overcast but it was still beautiful and allowed us to get an excellent sense of our place in the city and surrounding harbors.  My favorite part of this hike was that it took us past the Organ Pipes-an outcrop of columnar basalts formed when the peninsula was still volcanically active.

The next day we visited the Cadbury factory with Jeff, a friend from Macalester (who also accompanied us to Mt. Cargill).  This was a truly unique experience as it is the only Cadbury factory in the whole world that gives tours.  During the tour we picked up lots of chocolate but unfortunately no pictures.  Photography is not allowed in the factory (think Willy Wonka's secrecy) so we had to satisfy ourselves with photos in front of the Cadbury delivery trucks.  Afterwards, we hit up the factory shop where we made a number of delicious purchases including a bar of dark chocolate with coffee, Irish cream, orange and hazelnut fillings in each square.  Heaven!

  

Next up on the schedule was a trip to Christchurch where we stayed for three nights and two days.  The first day we spent our time checking out the city itself.  Our first stop was Cathedral Square, home of the famous Christchurch Cathedral.  The front of the cathedral itself was undergoing repairs so I'll substitute this internet photo for one of my own.  We also encountered a small flea market here but it was nothing compared to the arts fair we saw next on the grounds of the old university.  Christchurch is home to Canterbury University where chemist Ernest Rutherford used his gold foil experiment to demonstrate the existence of an atomic nucleus.  His old laboratories now are now the workshops of fine craftsmen, including a group of spinners and knitters who make beautiful hats, sweaters and scarves out of wool from New Zealand's many sheep.  

Right next to the old University are the Christchurch Botanical Gardens, I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

 

 

 

Next, we rented kayaks and went boating on the Avon river.  This was an interesting experience because our visit coincided with the kayaking leg of the Speights Coast to Coast, a triathalon of running, biking and paddling from the East to West coast of New Zealand.

As if all that wasn't enough, we also visited the Christchurch Museum of Art.

 

 On our second day in Christchurch we rode the gondola hoping to catch views of the harbor and out towards the Southern Alps.  Unfortunatley, it was rather cloudy, but the time we spent waiting for it to clear wasn't wasted.  Many a hand of gin was played!

For Claire's last day we decided to get a group together and go to Tunnel Beach.  Claire, Peggy (another Mac student), Louis, Jeff and myself all piled onto the bus and spent a beautiful afternoon on a beach accessible only by a tunnel through the rock.  The tunnel was constructed by Mr. Cargill (the founding father) so that his daughter could have a private beach to herself, away from the riff raff of Dunedin.  Supposedly she drowned on her first visit.  Fortunately, We avoided all mishaps (the water was too damn cold) and simply enjoyed the scenery. 

Well, my last bit of news is that next time I write I will be including pictures of my NEW flat!  That's right, I'm moving one street over tomorrow for a bigger room, a quieter street and a much much nicer kitchen.  Can't wait!

Miss you all,

Allison

Abel Tasman National Park

This Sunday I returned from a week spent hiking the Abel Tasman Track at the northernmost tip of the South Island.  The map shows the route we hiked from Marahau in the South to Wainui Bay in the North. 







To get to the Abel Tasman we traversed the better part of New Zealand's East Coast by bus.  Between the two of us we had a total of 14 bus tickets and I'm pleased to report that we didn't miss a single one (although a water bottle and a book were left somewhere in there)!  While riding that many buses was rather exhausting, driving was an excellent way to see the landscape of New Zealand.  Because there aren't any interstates here (it was two-lane roads the whole way) you really experience relatively unadulterated scenery as you drive along.  From the idyllic pastures of the farms around Dunedin, to the rugged coastlines and seal colonies of Kaikoura to vineyards and orchards of the Marlborough district it was all beautiful.  The only downside was that many of the roads involve a tremendous number of switchbacks leaving me feeling rather queasy.

The first night on the road we spent an unremarkable night at a hostel in Christchurch but the following night we camped in the small seaside town of Marahau where we saw people riding horses in the surf as the sun went down.  Marahau is where most of the water taxis and kayaking outfitters who take tourists along the Abel Tasman Track are headquartered.  Both of these modes of transport are very popular allowing people of all levels of fitness (but only high affluence $$$) to access the track.  While I was very happy to walk, I think kayaking would also have been fantastic, it was so hot (around 80 F) and the water always looked tempting! 

The track itself was everything we were promised: each day we swam in turquoise waters, ate dinner on beautiful sandy beaches and saw the stars of the Southern sky at night, all in perfect weather.  Unfortunately the sandflies were also as promised.  Despite the application of 95% deet and a strange roll-on sort of bug-spray Louis picked up we both got bitten up terribly and will be reaching for the anti-itch cream for some time.

One of the more unique elements of the Abel Tasman was that it involved tidal crossings which could only be accomplished within a few hours of low tide.  This meant that on several occasions we had to get up quite early in the morning (allowing me to take this picture of a spectacular sunrise), but it also ensuring that we had plenty of time in the afternoons for swimming and reading.

I have to admit some disappointment at not meeting any more really interesting people on the trail.  There were a few groups that seemed promising (including a large group of college students from Winona State University in MN) but the most significant conversation we had was with a group of older trampers from the US (Louis heard them call us nice kids.) 

Our last few hours on the trail were spent discussing all the food we wanted to eat once we got back to civilization (the hot dogs of Chicago and the bratwurst's of Louie's Finer Meats were both explicated in detail).  A number of different options were discussed but ultimately we ended up eating Italian (with some local wine) and topping it off with ice cream.  While I went for the homemade Maple Walnut, I suggested that Louis go for the "Hokey Pokey" flavor.  Having "experienced" this uniquely New Zealand flavor on my previous visit (it was awful) I suspected that its totally artificial sponge toffee taste would appeal to him.  It did, and he is now hooked on the stuff.

Our way back we spent another night in Christchurch and I dragged us out to see the Royal Botanic Gardens at night.  We couldn't see much in the dark, but I'm hopeful that when Claire (a friend from Nfld.) and I visit again next week we will see them as I remember them.

On that note: Claire is coming to visit me tomorrow!  I have a number (read: a ton) of rather exciting activities planned including a picnic in the Dunedin Botanic Gardens, a hike up Mt. Cargill for views of Dunedin and some exciting columnar basalts, a tour of Cadbury World, a walk up the World's Steepest Street, a day touring in Christchurch, a trip to Banks Peninsula to bicycle the caldera, a trip to St. Clair Beach in Dunedin, a day trip to see Larnach Castle and the Yellow-Eyed Penguin Colony and a day hike to Tunnel Beach. Whew!!!!  The next post is going to be full of crazy excitement.

Can't wait!
Allison

The Kepler

Definitions of a tramp: 

1. A prostitute. -- No...

2. A person regarded as promiscuous. -- No...

3. One who travels aimlessly about on foot, doing odd jobs or begging for a living; a vagrant. -- Not quite...

4. To traverse on foot  -- Ahhh, yes.

In New Zealand one does not simply go hiking, one goes tramping!  While it may sound silly, in reality, New Zealand's long-distance treks are no laughing matter.  This past week I was fortunate enough to experience one of the country's more beautiful tramps: The Kepler.  As I briefly mentioned in my last post the Kepler starts in the resort town of Te Anau, which is located about four and a half hours away from Dunedin.  I traversed this distance by InterCity bus and was regaled along the way with local stories told by our charming bus driver.  As the hours passed the idyllic scenery outside the bus became gradually more mountainous but one thing stayed the same: the number of sheep!  It doesn't take a guidebook to make a tourist to realize that sheep in New Zealand outnumber citizens by a large margin (15:1).  If my experience is any indication, what that statistic actually means is that by the end of any drive through the country, you will have a strong desire for a lamb roast with maple roasted root vegetables.  Mmmmmm.

After spending the night in the Te Anau YHA I was ready to begin my tramping.  While it was raining as I took a shuttle to the beginning of the track, almost as soon as I stepped off the bus the clouds began to lift.  The rain actually made the beech forest more beautiful, the greens were vivid and the air humid and tropical.  After an hour of flat walking, the trail reached a beach and turned sharply upwards.  After three exhausting hours of steep climbing through dense forest I emerged far above Lake Te Anau and got my first views out over the neighboring fiords.
From there it was only about another hour before I reached my first overnight stop, the Luxmore Hut.  After setting up my sleeping bag in one of the hut's many bunk beds, I headed out to see a nearby cave and then settled down on the deck with my book.

That night at dinner I met the first of my tramping companions.  Maria, originally from Holland but now living in Perth, Australia.  Maria had just come from hiking the Milford Track and assured me that the Kepler was much more worthwile, being less crowded, just as beautiful and having fewer sandflies (more on that in a bit).  The next day I hiked up to the top of Mount Luxmore with some other new friends, three girls all of whom were fresh out of the Israeli army and traveling the world.  You meet people from every corner of the world and every walk of life while tramping and it was interesting to hear their stories and plans.

On the second night Maria introduced me to Mirjam (from Switzerland) and the next day at lunch we added Tijs and Pieter (Belgian hitchhikers) to our group.  I traveled the remaining two days with Maria, Mirjam, Tijs and Pieter (walking at the sandfly pace.) I couldn't have asked for a more interesting and entertaining group of people to tramp with.  From swimming in the warm waters of Lake Manapouri and watching the sun set to playing a German travel version of Settlers we had a great time together!  Mirjam may even come to visit me in Dunedin!

One final note about the Kepler: sandflies.  Sandflies are the equivilent of Minnesota's blackflies, except worse: much much worse.  Active primarily at dawn and dusk (and in the foot of my sleeping bag at night) these mosquitoes suck your blood and leave you itchy as hell.  If you're extra lucky, like me, you might find that you are allergic to their 'venom' and wind up with huge welts and swollen areas making it look as though someone has been beating the crap out of you.  To avoid these demons, one wears 95% deet and walks very quickly (the sandfly pace).

However, I refuse to be deterred by the attacks of mere bugs so just as soon as my feet are back to their normal size (otherwise known as the day after tomorrow) I am off to hike the Abel Tasman.  The AT is an easy tramp along the beaches at the north end of the South Island and boasts white sand beaches, marine wildlife and yes, more sandflies.  Fortunately, I will not be alone in my suffering, I will be joined by a fellow geologist from Macalester and together we shall travel through Christchurch, along the length of the east coast of New Zealand, through Nelson and along the 32 miles of the Abel Tasman.  In short: there and back again.

Love,
Allison

Welcome to Dunedin

Today was my third day in Dunedin.  I'm just starting to feel comfortable in the city which means that it's time for me to pack my bags and head off on my first tramp, but more on that later!

My first view of Dunedin was as I landed at its small airstrip about 30 minutes out of town.  My first thought as we touched down was, "god, I hope we can stop quickly enough not to hit the sheep."  Yes, indeed the Dunedin Aerodrome, is quite pastoral, but the city itself is far from it. As my friendly taxi driver and I chatted about the city (and cricket) on our drive into town, the scenery slowly transitioned from bright green pastures to more urban buildings with beautiful gardens. 

My first stop in the city was at the University (photo) to pick up the key to my flat.  After signing the necessary paperwork and collecting my key the cab took me to my new home (less than a block away) and I began what my mother calls the process of 'nesting.'  This involved unpacking my stuff, hanging decorations and unfortunately washing every surface and cooking implement in the house.  I'm not going to post any pictures of the flat yet because I'm still unsure of which bedroom will finally be mine and the rest of it is not much to look at.  The room I'm currently staying in is very tiny (think smaller than a Dupre single), but I have hopes of switching with one of my roomates who might be interested in cheaper rent.  This is an issue that will take some time to resolve because neither of my roommates will be arriving until mid Feburary, nearer to when classes start.

Despite the fact that no one is living with me, I have already started to meet people.  Last night I hung out with the Kiwi boys who live next door to me, some kids who go to Dartmouth and some kids from Canada.  The latter two groups are here for summer school and will be leaving soon, but it was fun to get out and meet some new people.  The Canadians (here to study eco-tourism) were particularly fun to talk with, they were very outgoing and happy to share what they have come to love about Dunedin.

In addition to my late night communing with fellow foreigners and neighborly New Zealanders I have also done a number of other interesting things in the city so far.  Including...

 

Making good on my promise to smell the roses in the Dunedin Botanic Garden

 

Visiting the Dunedin train station in all its Sottish-Gothic glory and the First Church of Dunedin

Going to the Beach: Where my pale pale Minnesota skin turned the same shade as that sunflower above

If someone were to ask what has stood out to me the most so far, my answer would be: the colors of the foliage, the smells of the flowers and the exciting topography.  Coming from a white, icy, flat landscape these have all been things to behold.  My most interesting experience thus far was riding the (expensive) city bus.  On my way out to the beach I saw a number of interesting thrift shops downtown which I thought might be useful for furnishing my flat.  So, on the way back I asked the driver if I could get a transfer (you know where you can get off and then get back on without paying twice).  He didn't understand what I was asking, so I explained, thinking that the word must just be different.  When I had finished he gave me a very stern look and said, "Young lady, the bus is not a taxi cab to be used at your leisure."  Unfortunately, EVERYONE on the bus heard this lecture and much to my chagrin though my request was hilarious.  I tried to explain that this was quite commonplace in the U.S. which didn't help my case.  Lesson learned.

Next up on my agenda is hiking the Kepler Track in Fiordland. The Kepler is one of New Zealand's Great Walks, although 'walk' is a bit of a misnomer.  The hike starts in Te Anau and goes in a loop for 38 miles over the course of 4 days,  climbing almost 3,000 feet to reach the summit of Mt. Luxmore.  Check back in a week for pictures, hopefully they'll be stunning panoramas, the Kepler was one of the filming locations for Lord of the Rings. 


More next week!
Allison

Kiss me goodbye I'm defying gravity!

I left MSP on Sunday, beginning a journey of two days and four flights, taking me more than 8,600 miles to a new hemisphere and the other side of the world.  As we took off I looked out over the snow covered cities and it occurred to me that the next time I see Minnesota will be in June and the scene will be an entirely different color.  I thought of the changes I will miss, the melting of the snow, the leafing out of the trees...  But then I remembered that I'm going to NEW ZEALAND, where it is currently SUMMER and I stopped feeling so sorry for myself.

But I'm getting ahead of myself...

 

My preparations for this trip began months ago, but it didn't actually begin to seem real until it was time to leave Mac.  As friends can testify this was hard, with many watery-eyed hugs.  I look forward to hearing from everyone, especially those who have promised to write me letters! (367 Leith St., Dunedin, Otago 9016, New Zealand)

I also had my family to say goodbye to and that was even harder.  The first time I flew by myself (to Texas for 10 weeks) it was a rather tearful goodbye.  I'll spare you the gory details of my waterworks this time around, let it suffice to say that I love them all very much and it's too bad there are no such things as rewards for frequent skype-ing.  I'm going to do my best to stay in touch without, you know, calling home every day or anything ridiculous like that. 

Goodbyes over it was time for my next challenge... MSP airport "security."  Fortunately, I passed through without incident (I think they go easy on tearful blondes.)  Unfortunately, as I "hopped off the plane at LAX" late (due to mechanical problems in Denver) I learned of a "passenger Allison Jackowbel" who was about to miss the last boarding call for her flight to Auckland.  Frantically, I tried to pass through international security at LAX at the speed of light.  This is an impossible task but was much speeded by my shutting down a TSA agent who wanted to swab my laptop (again) for god knows what...  "Um, excuse me that is MY laptop (taking it from her hands) and I am very late for my very expensive flight so NO, it is NOT ok with me if you put it through a secondary screening."  I don't think people talk back to them, ever, and she was shocked enough that she didn't stop me!

Flying over the Pacific I (unlike poor Kaija) had a chance to think about where I've been and where I'm going.  It dawned on me that this time last year I was in the Bahamas.  I also thought about the last time I was in NZ (14 years ago this month).  Thinking about all this led me to two conclusions: (1) I have a pretty nice life and (2) I have a tendency to live in the past and future rather than enjoying the moment.  My corresponding resolutions for New Zealand are to (A) stop worrying so much and (B) relax and smell the flowers.  If you find me deviating from these resolutions please send me a nice letter and some dark chocolate.

It is now 4 pm, 2 days, 1 sleeping pill and several thousand miles later and I am sitting in my new room in Dunedin wondering where to start.  My adventure has begun!  More soon ...

Much love,
Allison

Southward!

"So you're going to go through with it, then," said her father slowly.
     "I am," Allison replied. "I've been planning this for a long time. 

And so the travelogue begins!

For those of you who don't already know or haven't yet guessed from my ingenious blog title; this semester (Spring 2010) I am headed to Dunedin, New Zealand to study at the University of Otago. Although school doesn't officially start until March 1st, I'm heading down on January 17th for a few weeks of traveling and tramping, part of which will be with my good friend Claire from Northfield. My hope is to start this blog in earnest as soon as my travels begin and to use it to share my experiences and impressions with people at home and friends abroad. Thanks for stopping by!